Published at 14:00, April 13, 2021
Written before the trip
The scenery of Tonglu is beautiful.
After living in Hangzhou for a long time, I am tired of seeing the soft and watery West Lake and the vast Xixi River, but I am more and more aware of Tonglu, a beautiful small city,
This is a pearl hidden in Jiangnan.
"A hundred miles from Fuyang to Tonglu, there are unique mountains and waters in the world.",
Tonglu, just in the middle of the river, is the natural and unrestrained painting on both sides of the river. It is surrounded by Fuchun mountains and waters and has a unique beautiful scenery. It is known as the "Chinese painting city" and is also the real location of Fuchun Mountain Residence.
Because it is located in the golden area of "three rivers and two lakes", Tonglu is famous for its "green mountains, beautiful waters, long history and secluded environment" since ancient times. Whether it's the mountain with the dyed forests, the rippling water, the magnificent karst cave, the beautiful and magnificent diaotai, the scenery of green mountains and beautiful waters and the quiet life atmosphere here, lingering in the heart is the world's stability under the smoke.
At the beginning of April, take advantage of the spring, come to Tonglu with me.
Itinerary overview
Day 1: Yaolin fairyland
Day2: Yanziling, diaotai, Fuchunjiang, xiaosanxia, daqishan National Forest Park, tongjunshan
Yaolin fairyland
How can we not visit Yaolin fairyland in Tonglu!
Starting from Hangzhou, you can get to Yaolin fairyland in about an hour and a half. This is the most famous Zhongrushi cave, also known as Yaolin cave. It was formed 100000 years ago and is one of the top 40 tourist attractions in China!
The whole cave is 1km deep and covers a total area of 28000 square meters. It is a typical karst landform. It is famous for its magical landform and colorful karst caves. It is a typical representative of karst caves in the subtropical humid area in the central coastal area of East China.
Ke Youzhai, a poet of the Song Dynasty, had foresight and compared this cave to a fairyland. In the 12th year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty, Yang Baoyi, the magistrate of Tonglu, nominated this cave as "Yaolin fairyland". According to the tour guide, "journey to the west" and "Fengshenbang" were shot here~
After passing the ticket gate, walk down the stone steps for more than ten meters to reach the entrance. The initial part of the cave is about three or four meters wide and two or three meters high. The stars on the top of the cave are twinkling, just like the night sky full of stars. It's crystal clear, comfortable and beautiful. It tells the whole piece of romance. It's very romantic!
Yaolin fairyland is divided into three cave halls, among which the most noteworthy are "Galaxy waterfall", "Qingtian Yuzhu", "33zhongtian" and "Yaolin Yufeng".
Accompanied by a murmur of groundwater, the first place to come is the first cave hall. The first cave hall is 135 meters long and 20-40 meters wide. It is the most abundant and concentrated place in the whole Yaolin fairyland. The most eye-catching one is the "Milky Way waterfall".
Although it is a piece of karst rock, it is like a flowing waterfall. Although there is no sound, there is a faint sound of thunder. People can't help but think of Li Bai's poem flying down 3000 feet, which is suspected to be the magnificent scene of the Milky way falling nine days!
Continue to move along the cave, the road twists and turns ups and downs, sometimes turn around, is to climb up, sometimes turn to suddenly open up in the place where there is no road, some "heavy mountains and rivers, doubt no road, willows and flowers, another village" feeling. Walking on the zigzag, wet stone road is particularly artistic. Occasionally, a drop or two of natural rock water falls from the sky, leaving a cool drop on the heads of tourists.
What you may not know is that today's Yaolin fairyland cave naked eye 3D light and shadow show is officially launched. Through the combination of sound, lighting, atomization, projection and other high-tech means, it perfectly integrates the gorgeous lighting special effects, sci-fi shocking scene layout and the unique natural wonders of the cave, and highlights the natural beauty, space beauty, space beauty of Yaolin fairyland cave from multiple angles and in all directions Beauty of level and beauty of form. Fairyland also opens 4.0 era!
The cave is not deep, but immortal.
The cave, which is full of delicate landscape stones, is also full of colorful lights, making the dark river colorful. If you look carefully, every scenic spot in the cave seems to be in a thousand different forms and full of fun. Huge stone waterfall, dense stalagmites, tall Optimus Prime, cold pool, give people a very strong sense of visual impact.
In the second cave hall, "Qingtian Yuzhu" stands on the craggy cliff at the end of the grotesque rock, standing upright, about 14 meters high and about 4 meters in diameter, which is particularly impressive.
Walking in it, if it's not dark, you will forget that it's in the cave. It's more like climbing a mountain. It can also be said that there are caves in the mountain, and there are mountains in the cave. It's so overlapping and continuous. It's amazing that there are so many complex caves!
The most famous one in the third cave hall is "thirty three Heaven", which is full of stalagmites, just like the Western Paradise.
The varied stalactites can be like mountains or lotus pots; They can be shaped like bamboo shoots or columns; It can be infinitely majestic, but also small jasper, like all kinds of scenes in ancient poems or TV dramas, which makes people imagine and marvel. It seems that only at this time can we sigh that the fairy tale world of "unique caves" is so unique and intoxicating.
The formation of karst caves is not a matter of one day. Hundreds of millions of years of mountain building activities and the uncanny workmanship of nature have created this magical world. When you enter the cave, you enter the fairyland. One after another, natural stalactites have come from the distant time and space. After years of tempering, they have formed the posture we see today.
Coming out of the cave and going back to the outside world is an illusion. Through a beautiful bamboo forest, the mountain is green, the sky is like washing, the breeze is blowing, the blue waves are rippling, and the sound is heard. It's very spectacular, but it's very pleasant to enjoy the wind and scenery!
Tips for Yaolin fairyland
Admission: ordinary ticket 116 RMB; Half ticket 1.2m (including) - 1.5m (excluding) children; Children under 1.2m free of charge
Opening hours: 08:00-16:00 from April 1 to October 31; 08:30-15:30, November 1 - March 31, the following year
Address: north foot of Luotuo mountain from Fenshui River to Dongqian village, Tonglu County, Hangzhou
How to get there: take the bus to Fenshui at Hangzhou West bus station to Tonglu forest farm, and walk for 10 minutes; Or take the shuttle bus to Tonglu and transfer to Zhongba to Yaolin.
other:
(1) Reference price of Yaolin Wonderland parking lot: ¥ 10 / time
(2) The ground inside the cave is wet and slippery. Be careful when walking. You'd better wear antiskid flat shoes.
Red lanterns and woods
After returning from Yaolin fairyland, we stayed in the red lantern cabin.
Grandma's home is a holiday village built according to the folk saying "if you want to come to my mother-in-law's home, you have to go to grandma's home" in the south of the Yangtze River. When you walk into your home, you can see many simple wooden houses scattered among the trees on the hillside, with scattered height and corridor. With yellow as the basic color, it is decorated with fir strips and a string of more than 2000 high and low red lanterns, big and small.
The tourist reception is a unique and eye-catching red lantern like house, but it doesn't give people a sudden feeling. It just sets off the theme of red lanterns in rural homes~
The simple and elegant wooden houses are named "shanhuazhai" and "Daoxiang village" respectively. They are scattered among the green mountains and trees, and the guest rooms are far away. They are all single family wooden house villas.
Inside the wooden house, there are all kinds of color TV sets, air conditioning and sanitary facilities, which are similar to the decoration of hotels in big cities.
On the lintel, they are named after Rose, Narcissus, red bean, water lily, wisteria, orchid and other flowers and trees, showing a strong interest in the countryside.
It's still early in the day. If you have leisure time, you may as well go up the mountain with your friends. From a distance, there are streams in front of you, and green hills behind you. There are many wooden houses, green walls, green bamboos and Xiaoxiang. They have various postures, unique styles, and a strong interest in the countryside. Some of them are incomparable charm and artistic conception of the city.
It's time to have a meal when you come down from the mountain. The restaurant of red lantern resort house faces Tianmu River, with green trees and quiet environment.
It's said that Tonglu is famous for its local cuisine, especially for its fresh fish in Tianmu river. When you come down from the mountain and sit down with your friends, the dishes are also on the table one after another. Tianmu miscellaneous fish, salted river shrimp, local chicken pot, spring bamboo shoot stir fry, etc. all say that Tonglu is a land of fish and rice. The cuisine here is really characterized by "soil", with some farmhouse food and fresh and natural ingredients, April is a good time to eat bamboo shoots. I ordered a lot of local green shoots, especially fresh.
Tongjun mountain, visit the holy land of medicine ancestor
In the early morning, the first ray of sunlight shines in through the cracks of the curtains, pushes open the door and walks to the wooden viewing terrace. What you see is a piece of green and distant sparkling, breathing fresh air and enjoying negative oxygen ions. It's really refreshing.
After packing a wave of luggage, they went to Tongjun mountain together.
Tongjun mountain is located at the intersection of Fuchun River and Fenshui River, just across from Tonglu County. It is the nearest scenic spot to the urban area. The ancient name is "Xiao Shan Shan", also called floating Yushan. It is said that "the father of Chinese medicine" is the place where Tong Jun is the old man. He has made a beautiful story of building a house for medicine and curing diseases under the Wutong tree. He has made the wonderful name of Tonglu.
Tongjun mountain itself is a very small peak, only 60 meters high, less than an hour to visit, and for local people, Tongjun mountain is a kind of spiritual sustenance in the hearts of many Tonglu people, away from thinking, return to love, generations of literati, with poetry to commemorate Tongjun's deeds: Yuan Dynasty Fanghui poetry cloud "ask surname Yunhe but refer to Tong, Tongsun forever and infinite.". He learned Shennong's family from remote knowledge, and only owed books to Taishigong; In the Ming Dynasty, Sun Gang had a poem that said, "take Tong as the surname, take Lu as the name, and be the hidden king from generation to generation."; Liang Qichao praised it as "the corner of Emei". It is carved on cliffs from the Tang Dynasty to the Republic of China. Here you can see the inscriptions of famous calligraphers of various times.
Stepping into the gate, the statue of the old man Tongjun sits in the middle, surrounded by the statues of famous doctors of all ages.
On the road to Tongjun mountain, you can walk up the rough road covered by mountain shadow and tree shadow along the green stone slab. The forest is lush and the bamboo trees cover the shade. Only a few scattered spots can be seen in the sky. Most of them are surrounded by trees. Many trees are old, and there is always a faint fragrance of herbal medicine floating in the air.
Walking up the mountain, the breeze blows, the branches and leaves lead the clothes. Through the hall of medicine ancestor, which is guarded by tortoise and crane, you can reach the top of Tongjun mountain. Tongjun tower stands on the top of the mountain, and you can see a 20 meter high seven level solid tower - Tongjun white tower, which is also a landmark landscape of Tonglu County.
Looking up at the White Pagoda and towering into the clouds, a few birds like black dots are flying around the top of the pagoda. At this time, Fan Zhongyan, a famous official of the Song Dynasty, seems to have a voice in his ear: "the bell rings the three mountain pagoda, and the tide level the Seven Mile Beach.".
On the right side of the white tower is a "bailing bell" weighing 4000 kg, which is covered with red prayer ribbons to express people's good wishes. Every new year's Eve, Tonglu villagers will ring the bell 108 times. When the bell rings, you can hear it for a hundred miles. "Junshan morning bell" has become a scenic spot in Tongjun mountain.
On the other side of the white tower, a "four looking Pavilion" with flying horns and flowing eaves is built near the river at a corner of the top of the mountain. From time to time, the sound of striking the bronze bell is heard, thick and long, reverberating in the valley for a long time.
Standing in the pavilion on the top of the mountain, Fuchun River is right in front of me, right under me. From a distance, the new town in the south of the Yangtze River is reflected in the river, forming a perfect landscape painting.
Tips:
Admission: Free
Opening hours: 08:30-16:30
Address: intersection of Fenshui River and Tongjiang River, Tonglu County, Hangzhou City, Zhejiang Province
How to get there: there are buses directly to Tonglu at Hangzhou West and south bus stations (express). You can take a tricycle or a taxi to Tongjun mountain scenic spot in Tonglu County, or walk through the suspension bridge directly to Tongjun mountain.
Daqi mountain, the first famous mountain in the south of the Yangtze River
From Tongjun mountain, we went to daqishan National Forest Park by the way!
If you don't get to Daqi mountain, you're not going to Tonglu.
Daqi mountain is also known as "Saiji mountain". On the South Bank of Fuchun River, it is a comprehensive forest park integrating Jiangnan landscape and grassland scenery. It is famous for its mountains, strange rocks, canyons, streams and waterfalls, as well as its majestic, dangerous, strange, beautiful and broad. Clear water, bamboo, pure air, these are postcards of daqishan. All the way, streams, springs, colorful Koi swimming, waterfalls, natural oxygen bar live up to its reputation. Because of its unique and majestic mountains, it is known as "the first famous mountain in the south of the Yangtze River" in history.
The tour route of the scenic spot is relatively simple. Enter from the entrance of the scenic spot, and walk up the sightseeing trail (shijingyuan Grand Canyon) on the left hand side. There is a waterfall on the top of the mountain. On the way back, you will meet Zhiqing canal, go right, and finally go down the mountain. There are almost no other forks along the way. Just walk along the footpath in a clockwise circle, and you won't get lost. Ordinary tourists can walk the whole journey in two or three hours, which is relatively easy.
When you first enter the garden, you have to go through a green bamboo forest. The spring shoots are breaking through the ground after the rain. Leaning next to the old bamboo, the path is quiet and quiet. The bamboo is dense one by one. It is not crowded at all. It is healthy and beautiful.
When you enter the scenic area, you will see green waterfalls everywhere. The shallow water is as clear as a mirror, and the deep water is as green as emerald. It's a wonderful place to take photos. There is also a amusement project called fountain here, which is an interesting scenic spot that all friends can actively participate in. As long as the tourists nearby scream or sing, they can activate the fountain in the pool. The louder your voice is, the higher the height of the fountain will be.
Further into the inside, as if to a forest "playground"!
After walking through the bamboo forest, you come to a place called Qingqing paradise at the foot of the mountain. There are many self challenging projects, such as swing, balance bridge, rope bridge and so on. Interested friends can experience the wild fun of farm recreation here.
The path winds along mountain ridges. The essence of the whole scenic area is the stone Jingyuan Canyon belt. It goes along the path along the mountain path, or winding, or short, or the soft intestines are folded or the road is full of peaks. The mountain road Qu Quwan curved, accompanied by a stream of streams, adding a pleasing pleasure between the mountains, waterfalls, bridges, Pavilions dot the road from time to time.
The mountains are green and the rocks are steep. Every ancient tree, every mountain peak, every corner Pavilion and every ray of Buddhist incense that I met seemed to have a aura, silent in the piety of time rings.
The cable bridge here is very interesting. The bridge is two guardrails pulled up by solid objects on both sides of the canyon. Under the guardrails, there are nets and ropes to protect it. The bridge deck is a piece of wooden boards connected together. When people walk on it, the bridge body will "shake" because of its load bearing. There will always be some bad companions who walk on the bridge and deliberately shake, which frightens the tourists on the bridge, There were bursts of laughter.
Stop at the stone pool, where you can see a lot of rocks lying, clear water jumping, the water in the scenic area is clear, there are different shapes of pebbles, water plants in the pool, there are some small fish swimming leisurely in the pool, chatting, a bow, but also full of delicate and beautiful~
Walking in the mountains, always inadvertently meet with a variety of falls and streams of different sizes; Pour the sentiment in the landscape, chant in the quiet stone beam depth; The verdant mountains and steep peaks and the fragmentary breeze stained with the charm of flowers and plants flow into the poem with a trickle of clear water, forming a frame of tranquil scenery of lakes and mountains.
The water system in the whole scenic area is very rich, full of water vapor. There are deep pools one by one. The water in each place is super green and clear. You can almost see it at a glance. It's not too pleasant to swim with Koi in the water!
Passing by a stone paved path, a pool of clear water is separated. On one side is the jingling water curtain hole, and on the other side is a small lake like a mirror. The lake is clear and green, and the sound of big beads and small beads falling on the jade plate is endless. There is a sharp contrast between the two sides. On the one hand, it is as moving as a rabbit, on the other hand, it is as quiet as a virgin, which is especially interesting.
Along the way, you can have a panoramic view of green mountains, beautiful waters, blue sky and white clouds. After passing a breathtaking rope bridge, you can get to Tianchi Lake. Many scenic spots have this beautiful sounding place name. Although Tianchi Lake in Daqi mountain is not big, the water is as clear as blue. The blue lake is embedded in the middle of the mountain. In a trance, it seems that you have crossed Jiuzhaigou.
When you go down the mountain, it is highly recommended that you try the flying mice in the forest here. You can sit in a car like a bumper car and fasten your seat belt. Each car is hooked together and shuttles on a specific track in the forest. It's really hi and cool.
Tips:
Admission: 52 yuan
Opening hours: 08:30-15:30 (January 1-december 31, Monday Sunday)
Address: daqishan Road, Tonglu County, Hangzhou City, Zhejiang Province
How to get there: you can take bus No.20 at the gate of Tonglu County long distance bus station to daqishan National Forest Park.
Yan Ziling fishing platform
The world's beautiful landscape, ancient and modern push Fuchun.
Fuchun River in Tonglu County has always been known as "small Three Gorges", and Yanziling fishing platform beside Fuchun River is a good place to visit.
Yanziling fishing platform is located in the Fuchun River, 15 kilometers southwest of Tonglu County. It is said that Yan Ziling, a senior scholar of the Eastern Han Dynasty, lived in seclusion for fishing. It was named after Yan Ziling's seclusion in the Eastern Han Dynasty.
It is said that Yan Ziling and Liu Xiu traveled together when he was young. After Liu Xiu ascended the throne, Yan Ziling didn't want to be an official, so he changed his name and lived in seclusion. Liu Xiu invited each other again and again, and gave advice to the doctor. He was still "unyielding, but cultivated in Fuchun mountain". He died at home in his 80s. Yan Ziling is willing to be honest and indifferent to fame and wealth, which has been respected by later generations. Li Bai, Fan Zhongyan, Su Shi, Lu You, Li Qingzhao, Yu Dafu, Guo Moruo, Ba Jin and other scholars have been to diaotai, leaving many excellent poems.
It is divided into three blocks: diaotai, Fuchunjiang small Three Gorges and Jiangnan Longmen Bay. It is also known as the "top ten diaotai" in China. A painting of the residence in Fuchun mountain by Huang Gongwang, a painter of the Yuan Dynasty, made the place name popular at home and abroad.
To reach Yanziling fishing platform, you need a yacht to cross the river. First, you can take a boat from the wharf to make a big circle on the Fuchun River (known as visiting the small Three Gorges of Fuchun River), and then stop at the wharf in front of Yanziling fishing platform.
The cruise ship is driving in the Fuchun River. The mountains on both sides of the river are overlapping and looming under the mist. The ink splashing landscape painting is also unfolding, just like a flowing picture of Fuchun mountain.
Standing in the bow of the boat, the cool wind blows from the river, and the green mountains are reflected in the green water, just like visiting in a picture. The scenery of Fuchun River in front of diaotai is quite similar to that of "Three Gorges of the Yangtze River", so it has the reputation of "small Three Gorges of Fuchun River".
About half an hour after the cruise, you can see from a distance that there are several blue brick and white tile Jiangnan ancient houses and pavilions on the north bank, scattered in the mountains by the river and hidden in the jungle. There is Yan Ziling fishing platform, which enjoys the reputation of "the top ten fishing platforms".
From a distance, you can see a modern screen wall with black tiles and white walls behind the dock, with 10 huge ancient seal characters written on it: "the first view of Yanziling diaotai in the world.". Stepping on the shore, you can see a archway standing on the water. On the front of the archway, the five striking characters "Yanziling diaotai" are written by Zhao Puchu.
On the back of the archway, the four characters "high mountains and long rivers" were written by the famous calligrapher Sha Menghai. The archway seems to be quite old-fashioned. I don't know when it was built. Just a few days ago, Huan Huan and Chao Ge took photos from the same angle here.
You can always find a place to enjoy tea, fish singing, Exotic Pines, stele garden and playing chess and cards, so that you can integrate your whole body and mind into this intoxicating landscape and cultural landscape.
Up the mountain, you can climb the not too high Fuchun mountain. Along the way, there are dense forests, towering ancient trees, bamboo groves, green roses and green vines. You can enjoy the scenery everywhere. On the mountainside, you can get to diaotai. There are two diaotai, the right is called Dongtai, and the left is called Xitai. Therefore, this scenic spot is also called "Shuangtai fishing". Each of the two diaotai is nearly 70 meters high, and there are pedals to go on. The East platform is Yan Ziling's fishing place, and the West platform is Xie Ao's weeping and sacrificing place for Wen Tianxiang in the Southern Song Dynasty.
The Fuchun River not far away is a fairyland in the world. The green river is dotted with sails and rippling waves. It stands on the wind and is outstanding. The scenery here is just as Wu Jun of the Six Dynasties said in his book with Zhu Yuansi: "from Fuyang to Tonglu, it's a hundred miles away. It's unique in the world because of its unique mountains and waters.".
It's very comfortable to see the mountain breeze passing by. On both sides of the river, there are green mountains, green trees and bamboos. Occasionally, you can see people with white walls and green tiles. This typical Jiangnan landscape is really fresh and beautiful.
Tips
Admission: 125 yuan
Opening hours: 08:00-16:00 from April 1 to October 31; 08:30-15:30 from November 1 to March 31 of the next year;
Address: qililong section, Fuchunjiang Town, Tonglu County, Hangzhou City
How to get there: self driving is recommended
Epilogue
"When the Qiantang River reaches Tonglu, the water is green, the mountains are green, and the paintings are not as good as those of Tonglu." "the mountains are bright, the water is tender, and the scenery of Tonglu County is natural and unrestrained. It's hard to say how it can be done." These familiar verses can not help but sigh that Tonglu is really a quiet and quiet town. With the floating of green clouds and the flick of fingers, it seems that every brick and tile has its own story.
In just two days, I experienced a slow life in Tonglu, with endless green mountains and endless green waters. My best friend and I made an agreement. After a while, when summer comes, I still want to come here for summer vacation, to find a quiet and leisurely way to escape from the world.
Please check the travel strategy
1. About Tonglu
Tonglu is located in the middle reaches of the Qiantang River and the Fuchun River runs through the county. It has a long history and rich culture. It is known as "the land of elegant and elegant, the land of natural and civilized". Fan Zhongyan, a famous official of the Northern Song Dynasty, expressed his deep feeling about the strange mountains and waters of this land, and praised it as "natural and unrestrained Tonglu"
Tonglu is famous for its "green mountains, beautiful waters, long history and quiet environment" since ancient times. It is known as "unique in the world with unique mountains and waters". It is a city with green trees, clean and fresh in the city, white walls and tiles in the countryside, harmonious and warm. Birds can be heard everywhere and flowers can be smelled from time to time.
2. About transportation
The most convenient way to Tonglu is self driving. You can go directly to the scenic spot. It takes about three and a half hours to drive from Shanghai; It takes about one and a half hours to drive to the scenic spot in Hangzhou. You can park on the roadside of the scenic spot.
(1) Tourists from Shanghai, Jiangsu, Ningbo, Shaoxing and Taizhou: Changshen Expressway (under Tonglu exit of Hangxinjing section) → provincial highway 05 → provincial highway 16 → entering the scenic area (2) tourists from Wenzhou, Quzhou, Jiangxi and Lishui: Changshen Expressway → Fuchunjiang exit of Hangxinjing section, heading for Fenshui direction → National Highway 320 → provincial highway 16 → entering the scenic area
(3) Huangshan direction tourists: Hangzhou Huizhou Expressway (Yuqian exit to Fenshui direction) → Fenshui (to Tonglu direction) → 16 provincial road → enter the scenic spot
3. About accommodation
There are many places to live in Tonglu. If you have enough time, you can choose to stay for one night, taste the local farm dishes and feel the leisurely life in the field. It's also convenient to travel back and forth near the scenic spot. There are B & B hotels, depending on your own needs.
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